Driftwood Retreat Gulf Islands, Mudge Island

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Gulf Islands


The Gulf Islands are a group of over 200 idyllic islands nestled between Vancouver Island and the British Columbia mainland. They are the perfect holiday spot for those who are looking for tranquility, rural beauty, ocean breezes, mild climate, back roads, great cycling, kayaking and easy living. Some of the islands are reached by regular B.C. Ferry service, others only by water taxis, private boats or sea planes. B.C. Ferry reservations are required for trips from Vancouver (Tsawwassen) to the Gulf Islands--for reservations and information visit BC Ferries.

Some of the islands are served by resorts, pubs, restaurants and other services. On other islands, you are very much on your own. But no matter which island you choose, you are in for a truly relaxing holiday in the Gulf Islands.

Bowen Island:

Bowen Island is not really a Gulf Island; it is really just a short 'hop' from downtown Vancouver at the entrance to Howe Sound. Until 1950 the Union Steamship Company took passengers to the island for an escape from bustling Vancouver. Now it is reached by a regular 20 minute ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay just to the north of Vancouver to the `village' of Snug Harbour on the island. Snug Cove is a charming collection of shops and restaurants a fine place to spend a day. The island also has lovely Crippen Regional Park which has a few walks that are highly recommended. Bowen Island is well worth visiting simply as a tranquil place to get away from it all, or, because of the short ferry ride to the mainland, as a great spot from which to easily explore the Sea to Sky Highway area to the north of Vancouver.

Salt Spring Island:

(pop. 10,000). Salt Spring is the largest (120 sq. miles) and most populated of the Gulf Islands. It is reached by a 35 minute ferry ride from Swartz Bay (Victoria), a 20 minute ferry trip from Crofton on Vancouver Island or a 2 to 3 hour ferry ride from Tsawwassen (Vancouver).

Salt Spring has maintained its rural charm while providing fine restaurants, pubs, a ninehole golf course and artist galleries--but most of all, miles of lazy back roads which pass by small farms, beautiful forests, lakes and, of course, the ocean. Don't miss Ruckle Provincial Park, Mount Maxwell, and the Saturday Farmers' Market in the Gulf Island's unofficial capital, Ganges. Ganges has a hospital, medical clinics, interesting shops to explore, a library, a Saturday morning market and a summer-long arts and crafts fair. Special Days: June - Sea Capers; July - Festival of Performing Arts September - Fall Fair.

Pender Islands:

(pop. 2,000). Less developed that Salt Spring, but with many of the same amenities--restaurants, pubs, Saturday farmers' market, many beaches and coves, golf course, tennis courts, many well-marked hiking trails, marinas and government wharves. Accessible from both Tsawwassen (1-1/2 to 2 hours) and Swartz Bay (35 mins). North and South Pender Islands are joined by a short bridge. North Pender has aging homesteads and old orchards that link it to its farming past. Visit Hamilton Beach and Mortimer Spit for swimming, the marinas at Port Browning and Bedwell Harbour, Beaumont Marine park, Port Washington Village and Pender Island Museum and Mt. Norman for hiking. Special Days: July - Salmon Barbecue and Fishing Derby; August - Fall Fair.

Galiano Island:

(pop. 1,035). Galiano, the sunniest and driest of the islands, is the closest of the southern islands to Vancouvera mere 50 minute ferry ride from the ferry terminal at Tsawwassen. The island has miles of logging trails and country lanes for hiking, a golf course, a pub, country inns, excellent restaurants, a health care centre and a beautiful beach park at Montague Harbour. Visit Bellhouse Park, Coon Bay, Mt. Sutil, Mt. Galiano, Bluffs Park and Gray Peninsula at Montague Provincial Parkonce the site of an ancient Indian village. Active Pass and Porlier Pass offer excellent scuba diving and sports fishing. Many artists live on the island and their works can be bought in island galleries and craft shops. Galiano has more than its share of sand, white shell and pebble beaches. Kayaking on the eastern side of the Island is especially interesting. Special Day: Artist Guild Summer Sale - mid-July.

Mayne Island:

(pop. 900). Mayne Island is reached by ferry from Tsawwassen (1 to 1-1/2 hours) or Swartz Bay (45 minutes to 1-1/2 hours). It is a quiet, historic island that has the feel of gentle English countryside. Miners Bay, near the ferry terminal, was a stopping off point for miners from Vancouver Island on their way to the Cariboo gold rush of the mid-1800's. Some of the 100 year old buildings built at that time are still there--including one of the oldest continuously operating hotels in B.C. with its pub that spills out onto an outdoor deck with views across the bay, and St. Mary Magdalene Church which was built in 1898. Oceanwood Country Inn on the island has been described by Anne Hardy in Where to Eat in Canada as "the best kitchen in the Gulf Islands". There are public tennis courts behind the Fire Hall, summer theatre, public beaches at Bennett Bay, Campbell Bay, Oyster Bay, Piggot Bay and Dinner Bay Park and scenic trails at Mt. Parke. Don't miss the local artists' displays, the Mayne Museum and the Active Pass Lighthouse. Special days: Salmon Bake - September; Fall Fair - August.

Thetis Island:


(pop. 350). This lovely and peaceful island is serviced by a small ferry from Chemainus on Vancouver Island. The island is great for biking and good for swimming.

Gabriola Island:

(pop. 4,000). Gabriola Island is minutes by ferry from Nanaimo. Gabriola offers some of the best cycling roads in the Gulf Islands which wind through rolling farming country. It has unique sandstone beaches, fine dining, golf, tennis and many local artisans and craftspeople. The Malaspina Galleries' wave-sculptured sandstone cliffs are worth a visit. Also visit Millstone Quarry and the three provincial parks--Twin Beaches, Brumberg and Sandwell. Special Day: Salmon Barbecue - August.

Lasqueti Island:

(pop. 300). This island is reached by a passenger only ferry from French Creek, north of Parksville. The island is very natural, tranquil and "laid back"--perfect for a relaxing holiday. Visit Spring Bay with its caves and eagle nests and Scotty Bay for its clam beaches. There is a small newly-renovated hotel right at the ferry dock which has a family restaurant (with liquor licence) and store attached. There is a post office, a shop selling local Gulf Island crafts, clothing and jewellery and also a bakery which is open several days a week in the summer.

Hornby Island:

(pop. 1,300). Hornby Island is located just off the eastern coast of Vancouver Island. It is reached by two ferries--the first from Buckley Bay, 86 kms. north of Nanaimo, to Denman Island and the second from Denman Island to Hornby Island. The Island is exceptionally beautiful with sandy beaches, dramatic sandstone caves and pastoral farms. Visit Tribune Bay Provincial Park and Whaling Station Bay with their sandy beaches and Helliwell Bay Provincial Park for hiking and beachcombing.

Savary Island:

Savary Island can be reached by water taxi (15 minutes) from Lund at the northern end of the Sunshine Coast. Savary is one of the treasures of the Gulf Islands with its white sandy beaches on its eastern side and its warm swimming water--much warmer than the water on most of the other Gulf Islands.

Quadra Island:

(pop. 3,200). Quadra Island is 10 minutes by ferry from Campbell River on Vancouver Island. It is famous for its sports fishing--reputedly the world's most consistent salmon fishing throughout the year--but it is also blessed with miles of roads to explore and spectacular coastal scenery. It has some of the best scuba diving sites in the world and wonderful hiking trails which criss-cross the Island. There are craft stores, restaurants, grocery shops, a post office, laundromat and credit union, liquor store and fishing suppliers. Water sports include fresh and ocean fishing, scuba diving, sailboarding, canoeing and kayaking, water-skiing and swimming. Visit the Kwakuitl Museum, Cape Mudge Lighthouse, the ruins of the Lucky Jim Mine, Rebecca Spit for beachcombing and Chinese Mountain for hiking.

Texada Island:

Texada Island, the largest of the Gulf Islands, is located about 50 miles north of Vancouver at its southernmost tip and about 5 miles southwest of Powell River. It is 32 miles long and six miles wide at its widest and is separated from the mainland by Malaspina Strait. Surviving middens and fish weirs show that First Nation People spent time on Texada long before Europeans discovered North America. These People didn't have permanent settlements on the island, because an ancient legend says the island rose from the sea and will sink again one day.

Cortes Island:

(pop. 800). Cortes Island is reached by taking B.C. Ferries from Campbell River to Quadra Island, driving across Quadra Island (6 miles) to Heriot Bay and taking B.C. Ferries from there to Whaletown on Cortes Island. The island offers beachcombing, fishing, swimming, artists' galleries, horseback riding, three restaurants, several small grocery stores, liquor store and bike, canoe and boat rentals. One of the restaurants is in the active community centre building and is a great place to meet the "locals". A number of fascinating, old general stores are located in bays dotted around the island where they were built decades ago to service the fish boats that plyed the waters around Cortes. While on the island visit the famous Hollyhock Farm--a "new age" resort visited by people searching for healthy bodies and minds. The month of September is very beautiful on Cortes--quiet and restful and usually the summer weather continues all month.

P.S. The Gulf Islands are paradise for cyclists.